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Diamond Education:
Once you've gotten this far you have already probably heard
about the "4 C's" of diamonds.
Carat, Color, Clarity, and Cut.
The sum of the 4 C's will ultimately determine the "5th C" ...Cost or Cash.
We will give you a brief overview to help you better choose a diamond that is right
for you. But keep in mind, we highly recommend you speak with one of our diamond
experts to help you pick the diamond that is best for you and in your price range.
Don't let someone convince you that you need a particular
quality. Everybody has different needs and it is our commitment to find you
the diamond that fits you best.
It is best to speak with an expert that is holding the
diamond, can see it and describe it while speaking with you. You are not buying
a certificate, you are buying a diamond!
Carat
is most easy because it refers to the weight of the diamond measured in carats.
One carat is 0.2 grams. It takes almost 142 carats to equal 1 ounce. One carat has
what we refer to as 100 "points." Therefore, a quarter carat would weight
25 "points." A half carat 50 "points." And a three quarter carat 75
"points" and so on.
Color
is what we refer to as the actual visible
"tint" of the diamond. The highest color and most rare is colorless.
Most diamonds sold in retail stores are near colorless to faint or light brown or
yellow. There are even what as referred to as "fancy" colored diamonds such as blue,
pink and red. With the exception of the rare fancy colors, colorless diamonds
command the highest prices. The worldwide color scale, derived by GIA (The
Gemological Institute of America), starts at D and goes through Z and beyond to
the fancy and vivid colors.

Clarity
is the degree to which a diamond is free
of blemishes and "inclusions." Inclusions are internal "imperfections" in
the diamond. Some inclusions are caused by conditions present when the diamond was
formed, others during the cutting process. Since nature makes nothing absolutely
pure or perfect those diamonds with few inclusions are rare and command a higher
value or price. The industry wide scale ranges from the low end of "gem quality"
diamonds I3 to the best flawless.
Most diamonds have eye visible inclusions. These
range from easily visible, clarity grades I2-I3, to barely eye visible I1.
One must also keep in mind the size of the diamond also greatly influences this
generalization. The industry uses 10x magnification in grading clarity
in diamonds.
I1-I3
(imperfect), this is the broadest of all categories. Most gem quality diamonds
fall into this range. This quality basically means you can visibly see imperfections
without magnification. How easy depends on the stone. However, the lower
qualities I2-I3 have so many inclusions they will generally not be shiny.
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An I1 stone may not be bad quality. In fact, this is mostly what you find
at retail jewelry stores. The diamond may still have good to great color,
lots of shine and sparkle but if you look very closely you may see a tiny inclusion.
A good value for those who want a big bang for the buck!
SI (Slightly Included), refers
to stones that under 10x magnification have noticeable or fairly noticeable inclusions
but are generally "eye clean." Eye clean means that holding a diamond and
looking at it without magnification you will NOT see visible inclusions. Most
of our merchandise is SI or better. This is a quality diamond that can
be compared to higher quality. The only difference is under magnification.
VS
(Very Slightly included), and inclusions are noticeable,
by an expert, under 10x magnification but are minor and small in appearance.
Unless you are using a microscope and the inclusions are pointed out, the
average buyer will probably not see inclusions even under a 10X loupe. This is very
high quality.
The highest grade next to flawless is VVS
(Very Very
Slightly included). Diamonds graded VVS contain extremely
small inclusion difficult for even skilled graders to see under 10x magnification.
You will no doubt not see ANY inclusions under a 10x loupe and may not even see
any under a microscope. This is EXTREMELY high quality. Only a fraction
of 1% of all diamonds acheive this grade.
The most rare clarity is IF
(Internally Flawless).
These are classified as being free of any internal imperfection under 10x magnification.
This is extremely rare and very expensive. We do not suggest an IF stone because
even normal wear can cause this type of diamond to lower in clarity by chipping
or abrading.

Cut
refers not to the shape of the diamond
but to the proportions to which the stone was polished. This is a touchy subject
because it is difficult to measure "brilliance" in a diamond. However, there
are several theories behind cutting the "ideal" diamond such as Tolkowski.
The AGS (American Gem Society), has come up with a "cut grade" with all their diamond
reports. Based upon this theory and others we can conclude that the best cut
diamonds fall into a range. AGS grades their perfectly cut diamonds 0 on a
scale of 0 - 10. AGS ideal 0 cuts are extremely rare and consequently will
cost much more. Very fine cut diamonds, AGS 1 and 2 grades, are also
rare but also exhibit extreme brilliance and provide a great value.

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ROUND DIAMOND |
AGS IDEAL "0"
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AGS VERY FINE
"2" |
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Depth % |
59% - 62.5% |
57% - 63% |
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Table % |
52.4% - 57.5% |
51.4% - 63% |
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Girdle Thickness |
Thin to Medium |
Very Thin - Thick |
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Culet Size |
None - Medium |
None - Medium |
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Polish |
Excellent |
Excellent - Good |
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Symmetry |
Excellent |
Excellent - Good |
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Florescence |
None - Faint |
None - Medium |
Cut in fancy shapes
Since fancy shapes are not symmetrical like the round diamond
no information has been published as to the "ideal cut" fancy shape diamond.
However, the industry , as well as our experts, has combined information to determine
a range for well cut fancy shapes. This is based on analyzing several thousand
stones over years of experience. A well cut fancy shaped diamond will produce
outstanding brilliance.
FANCY CUTS
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EMERALD
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PRINCESS
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MARQUIS
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PEAR
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Depth % |
65% - 75% |
65% - 80% |
59% - 70% |
60% - 70% |
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Table % |
50% - 75% |
65% - 80% |
52% - 60% |
55% - 65% |
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Girdle Thickness |
Very thin-Thick |
Very thin-Thick |
Very thin-Thick |
Thin - thick |
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Culet Size |
None-Medium |
None-Medium |
None-Medium |
None - Medium |
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Polish |
Excellent-Good |
Excellent-Good |
Excellent-Good |
Excellent - Good |
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Symmetry |
Excellent-Good |
Excellent-Good |
Excellent-Good |
Excellent - Good |
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Florescence |
None-Medium |
None-Medium |
None-Medium |
None- Medium |
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Length/Width Ratio |
1.3-1.65 to 1 |
1-1.3 to 1 |
1.7-2.2 to 1 |
1.4-1.8 to 1 |
What is Florescence?
Florescence is the impact of ultra violet light on the
diamond. 1/2 of all diamonds have some sort of florescence, from very faint
to very strong. This means that under ultra violet light the diamond will
glow blue.
Does this have an impact on value? Some times.
It depends on its noticeability. Diamonds of high color, sometimes
appear milky or cloudy when they have strong florescence. But not all the time.
The other circumstances when it is noticeable is under direct sunlight, which has
ultra violet light in it. Those diamonds which appear blue under sunlight
would be lower in value.
On the other hand florescence may add value to a diamond
of lower color as it gives the diamond a whiter, brighter appearance. Diamonds
with as high as H color and lower sometimes appear whiter with some degree of florescence.
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Here is a chart as to how the industry discounts florescence.
As you can see those diamonds with the higher quality and more strong florescence
have the largest discounts.
Remember, discounts apply to how noticeable the effect
is. Two diamonds of the same quality, both with strong florescence may not
have the same discount in price.
In all cases faint florescence has no impact on value because
it is only noticeable in a laboratory setting and has no impact on brilliance.
What does Certified mean?
A certified diamond is a stone that has been submitted
to either EGL or GIA for quality analysis. The lab grades the color and clarity
and takes detailed measurements of the diamond.
The importance of a certified diamond is to the consumer.
You can compare two diamonds that are both "certified" without even seeing them.
If you have two diamond both EGL certified G color, VS2 clarity, you can be confident
that they are comparable.
EGL and GIA are the benchmark in the industry for certification.
The entire industry uses these labs. How can you compare an appraisal from
an independent appraiser with a certificate? The bottom line is you cannot.
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If you are getting a good quality diamond it is better to have it certified.
This way you can be confident that your diamond's grade will be comparable to any
other diamond of the same grade, anywhere. You can shop for diamonds that
are EGL or GIA certified in your area and then call us for our price. You
can be sure, if you are comparing certified diamonds of the same quality, you are
getting comparable stones.
What Next?
Your next step is to browse our diamond database or contact
our diamond expert. Choosing the right diamond can be a confusing process.
Especially if you speak with an uneducated sales person.
Call us direct, toll free, and speak with one of our diamond
experts. He will ask you questions to better understand your needs.
Then he will suggest certain size, quality, or even shape to give you a head start
on choosing a diamond. It is your choice, either by e-mail or phone, a diamond
expert will contact you usually within 24 hours Monday - Friday. We will do
our best to make this a pleasurable purchase and to find you the best diamond that
fits your individual needs.
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